July 20, 2012
When it comes to putzing around in the kitchen, most home
cooks who fancy themselves gourmands reach for dry wines when deglazing,
simmering or marinating. I call shenanigans. As I was taught a few years ago at
a luncheon hosted by chef Daniel Joly, of the Mirabelle Restaurant at Beaver
Creek, at its base, beer is nothing but water and spice. You need only choose
the style of beer that compliments your dish and exploit its pre-made spice
packet.
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| I'm not sure who first discovered that putting a beer can up a chicken's butt would land you such a tasty dinner, but I applaud that person. |
There are hundreds of different uses for beer in food
preparation, from saucing fresh veggies to saucing the chef, but we’ll start
off easy with one of my favorites: beer can chicken. There are a lot of
different routes to arrive at the finish line with this one, but this is the
easiest way I have found to do it that yields excellent results.
We’re in the middle of a fire ban, so charcoal grilling is
definitely out. You wouldn’t be able to keep it hot enough for long enough
anyway, so we’ll be using a gas grill for this project. The lid of the grill
needs to be tall enough to clear the chicken when it’s set on end. There are
two other key pieces of hardware you’ll need to assemble: a flat, cast-iron pan
and a chicken stand.
The flavor of your fowl will depend on which beer you choose
and the additional spices you chuck into it. Crank your grill up to high heat,
making sure you have plenty of propane to do the job. Drink the can of beer
down about halfway and cut off the top with a sharp, serrated knife. Carefully
slide the can into the center of the chicken stand, and set it in the middle of
the cast-iron pan. Pull all of the insides out of your no longer feathered
friend, and shake in some spices. Use whatever will compliment the existing
mood of your chosen beer. With a slightly fruity summer number, shave in some
lemon zest. For heavier, stronger beers, use savory spices such as thyme or
sage. If you’d rather be a beer-flavor purist, stick to a pinch or two of salt.
Stretch the empty cavity of the chicken over the chicken
stand, and pull it down as far as it will go. The stand will keep the bird
sitting upright so it cooks evenly without toppling over. Pat more spices onto
the skin. Chunky sea salt is my go-to for this; you can find the flavored
Hawaiian stuff at specialty food stores if you’re feeling fancy. Once your
chicken is properly dressed, place the cast-iron ship with its poultry sailor
in the center of your grill rack and close the lid. Depending on the size of
the chicken, you’ll need to leave it on high heat for about 45 minutes,
checking occasionally for flare-ups. The pan will help protect the chicken skin
from getting charred, but there will be a lot of flammable juices rolling off
the sides and you want to make sure you don’t have an unattended fireball on
your hands.
Your bird is done when it reaches an internal temperature of
165 degrees. Use a meat thermometer to check, making sure not to rest it on a
bone. Remove the grill pan, and set it aside for another five minutes or so, as
the chicken will continue to cook. Pull the chicken off the stand, and carve it
up. The meat will be moist and tender on the inside from its beer steam bath
and crispy but not scorched on the outside. Pair it with some buttery Olathe
sweet corn and another can of your chosen brew.
From the Fridge: Big Sky Moose Drool brown ale
Brown ales are an interesting breed. They sit on the
spectrum near the same point as dunkels and some porters and stouts, dark beers
that are relatively easy drinking. In the glass, Big Sky’s Moose Drool is a
deep chocolate color, almost black. The beer uses four different malts to
arrive at its slightly sweet, roasty flavor, and the brewery also squeezes in
four hop additions to add complexity.
Moose Drool pairs well with slightly sweet flavors, such as
pork tenderloin with cherry jam or smoky chipotle raspberry sauce drizzled over
cream cheese and served with crackers.
The folks in Missoula must have had a spectacular time
naming this beer. If you’ve ever seen a moose lift its head after taking a
drink from a lake, you know what they’re talking about. Beer named after the
musky torrent running from a gigantic animal’s jowls? As long as it tastes as
good as this brew, I’ll take it.
Krista Driscoll
Hophead
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